Saturday 10 December 2011

Fair Vote For Russia - Protests in DC

This afternoon, I was at the DC protests against electoral fraud in the 4th Dec Duma elections. Around 100 people came so the turnout wasn't great. BUT 100,000+ protested in Moscow and that's a huge victory for Russia!

Back to DC, here is what you missed outside the Russian embassy:
1. I was one of the first people to get there. The police told us to go to the other side of the road. Not sure if these were DC police orders or the embassy had asked the police to tell us to stay away from the building
2. Nice peaceful protests. It was a slow start but then the crowd built up. Lots of interesting signs and posters. Some volunteers were distributing white carnations and tulips, as well as white ribbons - symbols of the protests
3. The first news channel to get there was...(drumrolls please)...Georgia's Rustavi 2! I'm sure Saakashvili is very happy with the developments in Russia! Kremlin-backed RT joined later and the Russians didn't seem too happy about that; some even called them, "shpioni" (spies).
4. A couple of guitar-'imeyushie' even played a few songs that I didn't recognize. I thought they'd play Viktor Tsoi's 'Peremen' - which I hear has become something of an anthem for these protests in Russia - but I guess it hasn't caught on everywhere else yet.
5. We had a signboard asking people driving by in cars to honk in support of a fair election in Russia. I was quite happy to see that many did!

Memo to self for any future participation in peaceful protests:
1. If the temperature is anywhere near 0 degrees, carry a pair of gloves
2. This is yet another reason why you should learn how to play a musical instrument
3. Even if you don't have all the materials to make the perfect signboard, scribble something on an A4 sheet in bright red pen. It's more fun that way!







Ok now I better get back to writing my paper, 'Predicting a Revolution in Russia.' I picked the topic in November but never in my wildest dreams imagined anything was possible or that things would become so interesting! Bravo Rossiyanini - you make me so proud!

Wednesday 7 December 2011

20 years since the collapse of the USSR!

A historic day today - for two reasons: 1. it is the 20th anniversary of the Soviet collapse; 2. this is the only time I will agree with Vladimir Putin and say that it indeed was the "greatest geopolitical catastrophe of the 20th century."



So here I remember the great state with some nostalgia and some fear, with a prayer for those who never saw freedom in their lifetimes, and hope for those who are currently fighting for their rights in Moscow and other cities across Russia against the electoral fraud committed by Putin's United Russia in the 2011 Duma elections.

Going back to humming this old Soviet tune: Moi adres ne dom i ne ulitsa, moi adres Sovetskii Soyuz (my address isn't a house or a street, my address is the Soviet Union.

Thursday 6 October 2011

Praying for Steve Jobs's legacy to continue...

If Steve Jobs hadn't died yesterday, American news media would have been talking about the 10th anniversary of the US-led Afghan War. I hope someday peace will return to the country and its kids will have a normal childhood playing Angry Birds on an iPad. iAmen!

Friday 17 June 2011

Bilateral Life

Just last week, started a new blog with Russia & India Report - part of the Russia Beyond the Headlines project.

Called Bilateral Life, the blog perfectly describes my story (so far) i.e. born to one nation and forever longing to be in another!

Here's the intro. Hope you guys find the blog interesting. Comments and feedback always welcome!

With an Indian passport and self-proclaimed Russian heritage, Aanchal Anand took a year out to fulfill her childhood dream of living in Russia and learning the language. Whether it’s walking on the frozen canals of Petersburg, visiting Lenin’s mausoleum in Moscow, eating pirozhki with locals along the Trans-Siberian railroad, or rubbing shoulders with Mikhail Gorbachev – she has been there and done it all. With this blog, she shares her adventures, reveals the best travel-tips, and brings to you the socio-cultural and political aspects of life in Russia, often with an Indian twist! Aanchal has a BSc in Economics from the London School of Economics. This year, she begins her Masters at the School of Advanced International Studies in Washington DC to major in Russian and Eurasian studies. You can follow her on Twitter @aanch31, send story suggestions to bilateralDOTlifeATgmailDOTcom and tell us what you think by leaving comments on blogposts.

A Writer's Guide to PR

I've recently started taking myself more seriously as a writer. So I'm reading more, scrutinisng more and doing much better against the dreaded writer's block. I've also joined a couple of writers' and freelancers' groups on LinkedIn - an incredibly useful source for at least 3 reasons:

- Being a writer can get lonely but when you find other lonely people like yourself, guess what happens? You stop feeling lonely
- It's an excellent way to be in the right company. I find that incredibly powerful and hope that some of their authorly awesomeness would rub off on me
- It's the one place I've found so far with oodles of excellent free advice for writers! I'm now going to share one that author Leslie Stern (whom I recently friended on Facebook) told me:

First PR rule for writers: market yourself everywhere.

It's so simple that it almost didn't inspire me. BUT it did kick me in the right place and made me wonder why I had never thought of it myself. To see that advice through, I've decided to post links to my previously published online articles on this blog. After all, like charity, PR begins at home! :)

Saturday 26 March 2011

Gorbachev's 80th birthday event

As I already covered in an earlier post, I got the chance to meet Mikhail Gorbachev on 21st March 2011, when he celebrated his 80th birthday with journalists at Moscow's Dom Zhurnalistov.

I didn't manage to take photos with him - because I was so much in awe that I forgot that I was holding a camera! But a journalist there did take some and she promised she would send them. When I thanked her I added a polite "whenever it is convenient" - words I have since come to regret.

So I'm still waiting for her to reply - and hopefully she will indeed send them*. But meanwhile, I found this photograph of Gorbachev holding the flowers and birthday card I gave him:



Here is the rest of the photo-essay put together by her for the newspaper, Novaya Gazeta.

*PS - I just received my photographs. Excellent quality because the journalist's was a professional camera after all :)

Tuesday 22 March 2011

How I Met Your Gorby

“10:37 AM,” my watch panicked. I had to get to Dom Zhurnalistov (Journalists’ House) on Nikitsky Bulvar by 11:00 AM for a round table conference, where former Soviet President Mikhail Gorbachev was to celebrate his 80th birthday. And there I was - among Bolshaya Nikitskaya, Malaya Nikitskaya and Nikitskie Vorota - completely lost. When it comes to directions, I’m not the most gifted person so I don’t harbor any illusions of DIY miracles. But I had already asked a few people and they had sent me all over the place. 

The sight of 10:42 AM restored my faith in external help. Luckily, the guy in the next restaurant knew where I had to go…and I ran like the wind, mentally patting myself on the back for keeping my heels in my bag and wearing shoes instead. (I’m quite used to this last minute running and try to make it as painless as possible!) 

 10:53 AM – I was there! Phew! I walked upstairs to the hall where the conference was to take place and met Lilia Shevtsova at the entrance. 
 “Are you ok?” she asked. 
 “Yes,” I said, realizing that I probably still looked a little ruffled. 
 “Are these flowers for him?” Lilia asked looking at the bouquet of orange-yellow chrysanthemums I was carrying. I nodded. 

As I entered the hall, I scanned the table to see where Mikhail Gorbachev would probably sit and parked myself on a seat with the best 'view.' As I caught my breath, I finally had a chance to put everything together. Everything I was carrying had a little story behind it…

…In anticipation of this meeting Marzia, my fellow intern at the Carnegie Moscow Center suggested that we should buy “Gorby’s” books so he can sign them. What a brilliant idea! Except the night before the event, I realized that it wasn’t so easy. Moskva on Tverskaya that has the biggest collection had nothing to offer – all sold-out because of Gorbachev’s birthday on 2nd March. Sadly, Moscow’s largest bookstore Bilblio Globus was already closed for the day so I just bought a birthday card at Moskva and headed to Respublika when my flatmate Ira told me that it’s open 24x7. As luck would have it, no Gorby books there either. 

“Perhaps you would like to buy Harper's Bazaar. There’s a full interview of Gorbachev in there,” the shop-assistant suggested. 
Beggars can’t be choosers so I played along…till I saw the cover. Call me old-fashioned but I wasn’t going to have Gorbachev sign a magazine with a half-naked woman on its cover! 

Biblio Globus – located next to FSB (former KGB) headquarters - was my last hope. It was my first time at Lubyanka metro station and as I went up the escalator, I remembered that Alexander Solzhenitsyn and millions of other Soviet people had gone up the same escalator to be questioned and tortured by the KGB and to be subsequently thrown into Soviet labor camps - this was the system Mikhail Sergeevich Gorbachev reformed! 
 Fingers and toes crossed, I asked the shop-assistant if they had a book by Gorbachev. 
 “Nyet.” 
 “Anything about Gorbachev then?” 
He handed me a book on Gorbachev and Yeltsin. This was the more decently-dressed version of the Harper's Bazaar blasphemy. Imagine asking Winston Churchill to sign a book titled “Churchill-Hitler” or Shah Rukh Khan to sign “Shah Rukh-Salman.” 
“Anything else?” 
“One more but that’s the only other one,” he said handing me a Wolters Kluwer publication, Vyzovy v zhizni i deyatel’nosti M.S. Gorbacheva (Challenges in the life and work of M.S. Gorbachev). 
I quickly examined the table of contents: a collection of essays – fabulous! And since it was the translation of a German book, I was reassured that it had positive things to say about him. Gorby, sometimes spitefully, is referred to as “the best German” by Russians who blame him for the collapse of the Soviet Union… 

…Having bought the book, I had one more thing to do – buy flowers. I must confess that I still haven’t gotten used to this Russian custom because never do I feel more robbed of my femininity than when I have to give flowers to a man. Ideally, it should always be the other way round - but when in Russia, do as the Russians. 
“What about these pink and red tulips?” the flower-shop owner suggested. 
“You know…I have to give these to a man…so maybe something else?” 
“So what?” she sounded enraged. “Tulips are beautiful flowers. Why won’t you give them to a man???” “How about something that isn’t pink or red?” I tried to calm her down. 
Well, that’s how I ended up with the bright orange-yellow chrysanthemums representing “the Sun and good health” as the lady said…

…And now me. So how did I end up getting invited to a meeting with Mikhail Gorbachev? Well, if I have to justice to this story, I would have to go back to the time when I was five and fell in love with Russia but to keep your (and my) sanity, I will stick to more recent dates. 

A few days into the Carnegie internship, I got my second translation assignment. Lilia Shevtsova – the Al Pacino/GĂ©rard Depardieu/Amitabh Bachchan of the think tank world - had written, “How the West Has Become the Kremlin’s Hostage.” She was so happy with my translation that she asked my boss to thank me. That’s when my boss mentioned that I would love to work with Lilia and she took me under her wing. 

Late February, while discussing a research paper that I’m writing under her guidance, we landed on Gorbachev’s topic. Lilia mentioned that he's a very good friend of hers and that she was attending his 'birthday party' that weekend. So you can imagine how my mind works - I started debating if should I ask her whether I could come along. The Good Aanch counseled, “Don't be silly! You don't even know her and it's too big a "favor" to ask for – especially because you were just trashing Gorbachev’s economic policies during perestroika and now suddenly you want to meet him!” 

The Bad Aanch said, “You f***ing nitwit. This is the closest you will ever get to a chance of seeing Gorby, the great. Ask her NOW!” Now in case you didn't already know, I usually end up listening to The Bad Aanch because she's my only insurance against the four words I hate the most - "What if I had...?" 

 So I asked and Lilia politely explained that I can't go because it is a small event for family and friends only. "But..." - and this is the only time in history when the word 'but' was followed by hope instead of disappointment! - "…there is a closed event on 21st March when he celebrates his birthday with journalists. I'll put you on the list…” 

…So there I was on 21st March 2011. 11:07 AM – things were about to start. I couldn’t wait! This man changed the world. He halted the Soviet nuclear arms race, allowed democratization of Eastern Europe and of his own country, and ended the Cold War. And while Ronald Reagan had merely taunted the Soviet leadership, Mr. Gorbachev did indeed tear down that Wall. He is not just a leader, he’s a Statesman – in the same league as Mahatma Gandhi. And for those who hate him for the disintegration of the USSR, let me remind you that it wasn’t Gorbachev but Yeltsin, Shushkevich and Kravchuk (Presidents of the Russian, Ukrainian and Belarussian SSRs), who - knowing fully well that the overwhelming majority of the Soviet people had voted in favor of preserving the USSR with reforms – signed the Belavezha Accords to dissolve the Union. As he entered the room, I couldn’t believe I was right there! I wondered if he would run right at the end of the conference and perhaps I wouldn’t get the chance to give him the flowers and the card. Perhaps his body guards won’t let me get the books signed – both mine and my flatmate Nastya’s – ‘Translating History’ by Igor Korchilov, Gorbachev’s translator. And then even if I managed it all in a rush, perhaps, the flowers and card would get lost in a big heap of other things and wouldn’t matter. 

 The conference began and the speakers around the table went on to say great things about Gorbachev. One man said that he feels lucky to have experienced more freedom than even his son who was born in the late 1980s and has grown up in Russia. Some even joked saying Gorbachev had destroyed many a Sovietologist’s career. One woman started speaking and Gorby interrupted asking who she represents. “Thanks to you, I can say that I represent myself,” came the prompt reply.
I was absolutely amazed with Gorbachev, who even at 80, will instantly charm you with his wit and humor. His voice is deeper than I had imagined and his manner thoughtful. But more than all that, he’s incredibly modest. When it was his turn to speak, he described himself as a small actor, who could not have done what he did without various factors like West Germany’s economic success and Soviet Union’s stagnation. 

While the others were speaking, Lilia had come up to me saying that when Gorbachev finishes speaking she will invite me over to present him the flowers. 
WOW! So I was going to be able to do at least some of what I had wanted to. I played the scene in my head - I would walk up to him, give him the flowers and the card, shake his hand and wish him ‘S dnyom rozhdeniya.’ It was going to be that simple... But it wasn’t! 

When Gorbachev finished, everyone applauded and Lilia stood up saying that she would “like to invite Aanchal Anand, who has come from India and would like present a bouquet to Mikhail Sergeevich." 

I walked up to Mr. Gorbachev and extended my hand – but perhaps not enough. I looked into his eyes – long enough for it to have been mistaken for a stare – and his deep eyes ‘stared’ back. 

Ti govorish po russki?” He asked if I spoke Russian and that’s when I realized that it had been more than a few seconds since I was standing there – not having said a word. I was in complete awe. I mean what do you say to such a great person? 

But his question broke my frozen state. I extended my hand enough so he could take the flowers. “Zhelayu Vam s dnyom rozhdeniya. Vsevo samovo samovo xoroshevo!” He took the flowers and the card and placed them on the table and then turned back to me, with his arms wide open to hug me.

“You’re hugging Mikhail Gorbachev! ****!” my brain – or whatever part of me was still capable of thinking – said to me. “I love India!” he smiled. “Me too…” I uttered, immediately realizing what a dumb response that was, “…and I love Russia as well,” I tried to ‘save the situation.’ (I clearly need more practice of speaking with Nobel Laureates and former Heads of State!) But he found it all very amusing and I walked back for the closing comments of the conference. I was back in less than a minute with my books because there were no body guards there to spoil the show. He had been so warm that I was confident he would sign them. But I was absolutely not expecting him to sign them with personal messages for Nastya and I, while casually chatting with me. He even invited me into photos other attendees were taking with him. Buying flowers and being Indian has never paid off this much! And I never thought a simple translation could lead to so much!
When he was gathering his things, I saw that my card was tucked between the pages of his diary. I felt honored that he was going to read it. As he walked out of the door, he patted me affectionately on my right shoulder. What a day it had been! As I mentioned to my flatmates Nastya and Ira, I couldn’t believe that someone so great can be so modest. In case you think it’s because he’s old and might as well be nice, think again - Robert Mugabe is 87, Fidel Castro is 84, and Idi Amin and Pol Pot died at 78 and 73 respectively. Being nice is a choice and Mikhail Gorbachev is great not only because of the things he has done but also because he chooses to be nice – and that’s why he commands so much respect. And here is my two cents for those who want to be great leaders – keep your ego in check. There’s a very thin line between confidence and arrogance and the former mutates easily. Coming from the corporate world, I know that every second assistant director thinks of himself (or herself) as God’s gift to mankind. And here I met God’s gift to mankind, and he thinks of himself as just any other ordinary man!

Friday 28 January 2011

Guess who's back?

Some adventures are just impatient and begin before their time. I was still 48 hours away from landing in Moscow when the owner of the place I had booked called to say that it had been flooded out and was “out of use.”
“That’s ok. I can get another place for a week and move in then,” I tried to sound very calm.
“You don’t understand. It has been completely flooded out. It’s dangerous to even use electricity and repairs can take up to 6 months”

****! And just like that, began what I like to call “Russia–Volume III.” Incidentally, Russia-Volume III is also Moscow-Volume I. The last two times I’ve been here, I’ve lived in Petersburg (Piter). This was going to be my first time living in Moscow. If such a thing happened in Piter, I have a gazillion friends to bail me out. In Moscow, I knew as many people as Jeffery Archer had in the title of Kane and Abel.

Truth be told, Aeroflot is not the best airline in the world. I was so drained after the red-eye that my brain couldn’t even figure out if it was because of the uncomfortable seats, the terrible food or the flight announcement at odd hours. (Oh well, at least it didn’t crash!) My initial plan was to roam around in the city-center till noon and then check in to the last-minute expensive hostel I had booked to temporarily save the day. But I made one of the better decisions of my life by heading straight to the hostel and paying for the previous night just so I could go to bed.

When I woke up at 2:30PM, I was surprised to see that it wasn’t dark yet. That’s the norm in Piter at this time of the year and I was glad to discover that Moscow is ‘powered’ till just after 5PM. Luckily, Moscow is also not as cold. While Piter shivers at around minus 20, Moscow is relatively cosy at around minus 10. People here say that once the temperature dips below minus 5, you can’t really tell how cold it is. But if like me, you had gone from plus 13 in Delhi to minus 11 in Moscow, you’d damn well be able to tell how cold it is. I guess that’s why clicking photos at the Red Square felt like such an ordeal. I was wrapped inside 3 thick sweaters, an overcoat, jeans thrown over 2 pairs of tights, along with the usual hat, scarf and mittens and yet, somehow it was still not warm enough. After taking less than a dozen photos of the Kremlin, St Basil’s Cathedral, Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the beautifully lit GUM(1), the index finger of my right hand, which was all I had chosen to expose to the Russian winter, had already slipped into a coma. I had to practically do a Vidya Balan and suck it to bring it back to life!

I’m Garfield when it comes to Mondays but 17th January 2011 was a special Monday. It was my first day as an intern at the Carnegie Moscow Center(2) and also my official baptism into international relations. Even though I devoured Foreign Policy more lustfully than The Wall Street Journal, I had been a corporate kitten so far. This internship was going to be my transition - an attempt at converting my hobby into a career.

I walked in excitedly and was at my work-station in 30 minutes. And what a work-station! I sit in the library, which is the dome of the Galeriya Aktyor building on Tverskaya - Moscow’s most famous street – that overlooks Tverskaya (obviously!) on both sides, Pushkin Square with his statue, and you can see 3 of the 7 Stalinist skyscrapers(3) including the imposing Ministry of Foreign Affairs. But the view I fell in love with was the Pepsi billboard right across the street that said, “Vsyo tolko nachinaetsya!” (It’s only just beginning). How true!

First days usually involve quietly slipping into a new environment but mine involved a 4PM office party with lots of champagne and wine! It was our IT Manager, Volodya’s 50th birthday and we all gathered to celebrate in style. (They even made me toast in Hindi!) The party was a great way to meet all the research experts and staff at Carnegie, who were all very curious and welcoming as I am their first-ever Indian intern. That’s also how I met Alexander Starikov. He came up and told me that he had visited Delhi back in 1959. Wow! Nostalgia lit up his eyes as he gently sipped his wine. “I stayed at Krishna Road.”
“Krishna Road?” I struggled to remember.
“It is where all the embassies are.”
Really? Then this is somewhere in present-day Chanakyapuri – where I live!

Alexander went on to explain his role as the Deputy Director of Carnegie’s journal, Pro et Contra, and also shared that the photos hanging around the office and the conference hall were his works! At first glance, I wondered what photo-editing function had been used to get the wind and ripple effects but Alexander revealed that he usually sits by ponds, waits for a leaf to fall and snatches the perfect moment. None of his works(4) had been edited. He had captured life either through the rainy glasses of moving trolleybuses or through the dusty windows of the city’s high-rises. I could hardly believe that such exquisite art hadn’t been edited! Adobe Photoshop – eat your heart out.


As I walked back home that evening, the champagne wore off and the Moscow winter began to ferociously gnaw at my skin. You know it’s too cold when:
-You accidentally leave Backstreet Boys on repeat play on your iPod but it’s too cold to take it out of your pocket and change the song
-You spend an extra couple of seconds behind a car exhaust while crossing the road just so it can warm you up
-You want to give a fitting reply to the construction worker who just made a rather inappropriate gesture at you but your middle finger is too scared to leave the warm confines of your mittens

So ladies and gentlemen, stay tuned because there’s a lot more to come. After all, vsyo tolko nachinaetsya!

Notes:
1. Gosudarstvenii Universalnii Magasin = State Universal Shop–the abyss of shopping during Soviet times now adorned by the Louis Vuttons, D&Gs and Chanels of the world
2. About Carnegie:
http://carnegie.ru/about/?lang=en
3. Moscow’s Seven Sisters:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seven_Sisters_(Moscow)
4. Some pics of Alexander Starikov’s photos are here:
http://tinyurl.com/5vyevl9